If you are wondering why we chose to use a particular ingredient, please reach out, and we can explain why we think that element is either beneficial or necessary. Every selection meets one or both of those qualifications.
None of the ingredients used in our products have the capability to cause irritation for normal or sensitive skin types, unless otherwise specified, explained below. Of course, people can be allergic to almost anything; if you DO have a reaction, PLEASE reach out to us by text or phone call ASAP, any time from sunrise to sunset. WE WANT TO KNOW.
There are some products we sell which, as with any competing product of their nature, can be irritating in some rare circumstances. Examples are our premixed peel, and our vitamin c products.
INGREDIENTS INDEX (if not specified, the name is the INCI)
Allantoin - a natural moisturizer, exfoliator, anti-irritant, and skin protectant. Can help promote cell growth, wound healing, and skin smoothness. This ingredient is a true powerhouse, phenomenal for all skin types. It is found in many plants, such as comfrey, beet, wheat sprouts, horse chestnut, and tobacco seeds, but a nature-identical version is sythesized to meet worldwide demand, and this is what we use.
Aloe Vera - a skin-soother and moisturizer, the leaf "fillet" (the "meat" of the leaf) is harvested, dried, powdered, and re-hydrated. This is done because it allows it to last longer, both on a shelf, and in a solution. Additionally, the outside of the leaf contains irritating chemicals, which can negate the soothing properties we want to convey. We once attempted harvesting from actual leaves, but this required excessive work to do by hand, and so was inefficient, expensive, and sometimes resulted in irritants in a final product, which we stay away from like the plague. (INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)
Apple Surfactant - Ultra gentle, luscious soft lather! An excellent choice for sensitive skin, baby products, facial products or other natural skin care or hair care products. Non-irritating and will not strip skin or hair of natural oils. Will leave skin feeling soft and conditioned after rinse off.
Product characteristics:
-Extremely mild, surfactant for hair and skin care
-Ultra-mild and fabulous skin feel. Gentle for face.
-Compatible with most ingredients
-Ready to use, neutral pH
-Anionic
-Preservative free
-Biodegradable
(The Herbarie) (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids)
Babassu Oil - "Babassu oil and other parts of the plant are used for various medicinal purposes in South America, such as to treat skin conditions, wounds, inflammation, and stomach problems. The oil is rich in antioxidants, which are compounds that can help reduce cellular damage caused by harmful free radicals. In addition, babassu oil is antibacterial. One test-tube study noted that it killed certain harmful bacteria like Staphylococcus aureus, which causes staph infections. Components of the babassu plant, including its oil, are also anti-inflammatory and can promote wound healing. In one study, rats that had babassu extract applied to a wound healed faster than a control group." (healthline.com) There are some risks associated with eating babassu oil, but none associated with topical use of it. Healthline refers to these risks, but here are the studies: (1,2,3) (INCI: Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil)
Bakuchi Oil - Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) have used Babchi for thousands of years for many ailments. Not just skin! Babchi has been used for skin complaints, purifying the blood and strengthening immunity and teeth. All parts of the plant have been used – leaves, and seeds. Its use in treating vitilgo gives a clue to how it can even out skin tone when used in beauty products.
Babchi for beautiful healthy hair
Babchi stimulates hair growth as well as removing dandruff. You can even restore your hair’s natural colour and lustre with Babchi oil and head massage. How? By massaging babchi oil into your scalp. Mix some babchi oil into a base oil like coconut, jojoba or sesame oil and apply. How much Babchi? Well try 1% initially and work up to 5%. Massage well into the roots, perhaps using techniques from traditional Indian Head Massage. The side effects of head massage are feeling relaxed and destressed… it’s lovely to do a swapsy with your best friend. You can combine massage with Netflix. Get your partner/friend to sit in front of you with a cushion supporting their lower back, and then you massage their head (and shoulders!) It’s wonderfully nurturing. Maybe you can train your child to do this??? Probably not possible when they’re in that shouty ‘you-ruined-my-life’ stage as teenagers though. If you see a massage therapist, you could take your bottle of Babchi oil along and ask to have a few drops included with your scalp massage.
Babchi and wound care
Babchi has also been used in wound care, for instance after burns or scalds. (Please note that for a burn you should put the affected limb/area under cold running water for a minimum of 2 minutes. Two minutes sounds like a short time but when you are standing under the tap, make sure you stay the full 120 seconds.) After that, apply lavender essential oil diluted into aloe vera gel. Or, just plain aloe vera gel. And then apply the aloe every hour or so for the next day. And a few days later you can apply Babchi oil diluted into a simple carrier such as coconut, sunflower, sesame or almond with a few drops of omega rich rosehip, tamanu, marula, cacacy, avocado or argan oil. Or Empress Elixir or Samba. If you’d like to add essential oils, to every 30ml of carrier oils you can add a total of 6-10 drops of essential oil. Useful oils are : lavender, helichrysum, blue tansy and chamomile, with lavender being the most affordable. I use essential oils in all my products for their glorious scent and magnificent healing abilities.
Babchi and psoriasis
In 1933 the world was introduced to psoralen. The definition is that psoralen is a chemical substance (C11H6O3) found in some plants that photosensitizes mammalian skin and is used in conjunction with ultraviolet light to treat psoriasis. There are several different types of phototherapy—including narrowband UVB, broadband UVB, targeted UVB [excimer laser or light], and UVA with psoralens (topical, oral, or bath)—and all of them involve exposing the skin to light.
— Jenna Birch, SELF, 28 Oct. 2019
My recommendation would be to speak with an expert before doing a home treatment.
Babchi and vitiligo
Vitiligo is an unpleasant skin condition where white patches occur when skin looses its natural pigmentation. (Melanin pigments are lost when melanocytes cells die). Babchi slowly reduces the size of the white patches, from the outer edges towards the centre as pigment production is restarted. You can imagine the horrible emotional side effects from this, the suffering. (If you have vitiligo, I feel for you.) It’s no surprise that vitiligo leads to a loss of self confidence. Scientific studies show how Babchi acts on melanoblastic and Rouget’s cells, stimulating pigment production. The new pigment then diffuses into the paler skin surface, restoring normal colour.
(Glow Skincare)
(INCI: Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Oil)
Beeswax - a natural ingredient, beeswax is one of the earliest raw materials used by man, and promotes skin softness, elasticity, wound healing and protection, and is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-allergenic; it's practically anti-everything bad, and pro-everything good. We use an organic, triple-filtered white beeswax for some of our formulations. (INCI: Cera Alba)
Candelilla Wax - a vegan ingredient, this wax is hypoallergenic, skin-soothing, moisturizing and conditioning. It can promote anti-aging, skin smoothness and, helps with skin scaliness. The candelilla shrub is endangered, and there is some concern over how it is harvested, but the wax we prefer to use is purchased from a verified-sustainable supplier, and is covered under CITES. (INCI: Euphorbia Cerifera Cera)
Camellia Oil - an exotic, high-end luxurious moisturizer, it is a highly nourishing, antioxidant-rich oil. It is rich in polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fatty acids, including Oleic and Linoleic Acids; it is also high in skin-rejuvenating vitamins, minerals, and compounds, including Vitamin E, Vitamin A, Magnesium, Zinc, and Squalene lipids. These nutrients collectively make the oil exceptionally hydrating, moisturizing, and protective, with high antioxidative power and lasting cosmetic benefits. (INCI: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil)
Carnauba Wax - the hardest natural wax, it is hypoallergenic, non-toxic, and soothes, smooths, and softens skin. It helps lengthen the staying power of formulations, and helps them resist coming off skin when we want them to stay on. We use an organic carnauba wax. (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera)
Castor Oil - it is thought to be pain-relieving, and has been shown to help arthritis when ingested. It also promotes wound healing, as it is antimicrobial, antifungal and barrier-repairing. This is likely due to its unique composition of roughly 90% ricinoleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid found purer nowhere else. We use less than a 6% concentration in all our formulations.
Has been thought to induce labor. Here are some relevant links if you are interested in learning more. We feel quite safe selling products containing it, particularly considering our low usage rates. (Verywell Health, 1,2) (INCI: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil)
Cera Bellina - a hydrophilic derivative of natural beeswax in which the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerols esters through the use of heat and vacuum. Elimination of the free fatty acid functionalities in beeswax improves the oil gelling and oil retention capability.
Products formulated with Cera Bellina and natural as well as synthetic oils produce remarkably stable, smooth gels. This property is also beneficial in emulsion products, where its hydrophylic properties enable it to act as a coemulsifier and its rheology modifying properties lend increased formulation stability. In decorative cosmetics, Cera Bellina helps to break up pigment agglomerates by forming a gel network thereby maintaining an even distribution of ingredients. Cera Bellina also suppresses the fatty acid, fatty alcohol migration and oil syneresis in finished stick formulas.
Cera Bellina has the unique ability to give stability by forming non-granular gels of liquid oils. Besides the consistency regulating properties of beeswax, Cera Bellina has the remarkable capability of inhibiting crystallization in the oil phase and therefore enhancing stability by preventing the formation of granules. This attribute can eliminate the graininess or rice granule effect that can occur when using shea and other natural butters in anhydrous formulations such as lip balms and lotion bars. (Lotioncrafter) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax)
Benefits
- Imparts a smooth, satin-like feeling to the skin
- Solubility and safety similar to beeswax
- Suitable for sensitive skin
- Emulsion stabilizer
- Functions like a low HLB coemulsifier
- Gelling agent for oils
- Thickener in anhydrous products
- Pigment stabilizer
Cetyl Alcohol - not "that" kind of alcohol! This is a natural ester derived from coconut and palm oils, and is primarily a moisturizer, promoting skin softness and smoothness. As there is concern over the sustainability of palm oil, we use cetyl alcohol derived from coconut.
Cetyl Esters - very similar to the previous entry, except containing a broader spectrum of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols. The supplier we use for this derives it from palm oil, but is part of the RSPO, and is therefore certified as sustainably sourced.
Chia Seed Oil - can help prevent premature aging by restoring the skin's barrier, and reducing wrinkles and fine lines; is rich in Omega 3 and 6 fats, which are essential components of cell tissue; great for serious conditions like atopic dermatitis, as it seals in moisture, repairing the skin
Cocoa Butter - a moisturizer, this fast-absorbing butter can help heal chapped and scaly skin. It promotes skin smoothness, anti-aging, and works to naturally soothe dry, sensitive skin while reducing and preventing the appearance of scars and unwanted marks.
Coconut Oil - considered a fruit and not a nut, coconut oil's benefits can be enjoyed by the vast majority of people, and is well-known as a beneficial skin-softening moisturizer and soothing anti-irritant. Even so, there are some risks associated with the use of coconut oil topically.
These are the risks of coconut oil, as stated by New Directions Aromatics:
"Individuals who use Coconut Oil to soothe acne on skin that is not very oily to begin with will likely enjoy the anti-bacterial properties of the Lauric Acid content; however, individuals with excessively oily skin are likely to experience what might appear to be aggravated skin. This reaction will likely occur due to the detoxifying properties of Virgin Coconut Oil that are powerful enough to purge layers of toxins from deep beneath the skin’s surface. This reaction will make skin appear as though the condition has worsened, but the irritation and inflammation will be temporary and will eventually decline in a matter of a few weeks – depending on the amount of toxin build-up – as the skin heals, improves, and clears up. To prevent the skin from flaring up in this manner, another possible option for acne-prone skin is to use Coconut Oil as a carrier for skin-soothing essential oils that are reputed to relieve acne.
Although it is a rare occurrence, Coconut Oil may potentially cause an allergic reaction that could involve anaphylaxis, eczema, facial swelling, hives, lightheadedness, nausea, rapid heart rate, rashes, or vomiting. Children with peanut or tree nut allergies are less likely to experience an allergic reaction to Coconut Oil, as coconuts are considered to be fruits rather than nuts; however, it is highly recommended that a doctor be consulted before these individuals use Coconut Oil. Children with hypothyroidism should refrain from using Coconut Oil or any related products without first consulting a medical practitioner, as it might aggravate the condition."
Coconut MCT Oil - You have most likely used this in a skincare product before; it is often listed on ingredients labels as "Capric/Caprylic Triglyerides". This is a refined form of coconut oil popular for many so-called "fad" diets, most prominently keto. One major reason behind this cultural phenomenon is the discovery that the body processes this particular type of fat in a different way from others. Medium-chain triglycerides are proven to be beneficial for the body when taken internally or used externally, and can be used safely by most people. However, if you have an allergy to coconut oil, we do not recommend you use coconut MCT oil. Coconut is considered a fruit, and not a tree nut. If you are unsure of your sensitivities, you may conduct a patch test by using a dime-sized amount gently massaged onto the inner arm, or some other out-of-sight spot, to check for any reactions.
Distilled Water - we only use distilled water in our formulations to prevent microbial presence, ensure purity, extend shelf life, and it keeps our products less variable. Using water in lotions makes them far lighter and less greasy than their anhydrous (water-free) counterparts, and contributes to the overall moisturizing properties of the product once it is applied to skin, especially if you live in a dry climate, like I do here in Colorado.
ECOmulse - "is a naturally sourced, self-emulsifier for oil in water emulsions. It contains no ethoxylated ingredients. This system is based on acyl lactylates, which are conditioning to both hair and skin. The anionic lactylates are produced by a reaction between the acyl group of fatty acids and lactic acid. Lactic acid and fatty acids are natural moisturizing factor (NMF) constituents that are found in the skin. The lactylates are excellent viscosity enhancers, stabilizers, and conditioners. ECOMulse™ is a complete, balanced and highly desirable emulsification system. When used in lotions and creams, it will provide a soft, conditioned, talc-like feel to skin. Note, because this is based on anionic lactylates, it does not conform to the HLB system for non-ionic surfactants and no HLB number has been determined by the manufacturer. EcoMulse is manufactured using raw materials that are GMO-free." (Lotioncrafter)
Compositional Breakdown:
Glyceryl Stearate 55-65%
Cetearyl Alcohol 20-30%
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 10-20%
Grapeseed Oil - (MindBodyGreen)
- It's noncomedogenic.
- It supports collagen production.
- May help ease redness.
- Locks in hydration.
- Helps with wound healing + scars.
- May help with hair growth.
- Helps minimize the look of enlarged pores.
- It's antimicrobial.
Hemp Seed Oil - moderates oil production, moisturizes and soothes irritation, treats eczema, is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, is noncomedogenic, and is incredibly high in unsaturated fats.
Honeyquat - "Honeyquat PF (Paraben Free) is a naturally derived quaternized conditioning agent (polyquaternium) made from honey with excellent moisture binding capabilities (far more powerful than glycerin) for use on skin and hair in both leave-on and rinse-off applications. It is substantive and moisturizing and with it's low molecular weight, able to penetrate hair to provide its moisturizing benefits over time while providing shine and luster. Honeyquat will improve wet-combability of the hair and reduce static buildup when dry combining." (Lotioncrafter)
Jeequat - "JEEQUAT® Naturally Derived Conditioning System is a ready to use, economical skin care and hair care cationic conditioner containing Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride at a 21 % active quaternary level. This quat ingredient is naturally-derived from renewable rapeseed (canola) oil and is based on the primary lipid found on hair surfaces. The other ingredients in this blend are all derived from natural sources – Cetyl Alcohol from vegetable oils; Cocamidopropyl Betaine from coconut oil and Sorbitan Laurate from plant fatty acids and sorbitol.
JEEQUAT® NDCS has been hydrophile/lipophile balanced to ensure the highest viscosity, highest conditioning effect and lowest cost for your skin or hair care formulation. For skin care applications it imparts exceptional suspending and emulsification and leaves a soft, smooth feel even after rinsing. For hair care applications, it provides excellent substantive conditioning, wet combing, anti-static properties, detangling, hair softening, suspending and emulsification.
All ingredients comprising JEEQUAT® NDCS are accepted for Whole Foods Premium standard." (Lotioncrafter)
Jojoba Oil - technically not an oil at all. It is composed of roughly 98% wax esters, which are essential for skin health, and rarely included in skincare products. The skin's natural oil composition is roughly 60% Fatty Acids, 4% Cholesterol, 11% Squalane, and 25% Wax Esters. Therefore, in our biomimetic formulations, we use jojoba oil at roughly this concentration to closely resemble the natural composition of skin. It is also anti-inflammatory and soothing for those with eczema and extremely dry skin.
Leucidal Liquid SF Max - a salicylic acid-free, probiotic-based ingredient created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium. Optimizing the fermentation process to tighten the specification for bacteriocins, Leucidal® SF MAX provides broad spectrum antimicrobial results with an increased degree of confidence. Lactobacillus is one of the species of microorganisms used to produce fermented products such as sauerkraut and kimchi, a Korean dietary staple from cabbage. Like many members of the lactic acid bacteria family, Lactobacillus is capable of restricting the growth of other microorganisms by acidifying its environment. However, in addition to acidifying its environment, Lactobacillus also produces novel antimicrobial peptides, also known as bacteriocins, that are capable of providing broad spectrum antimicrobial protection.
During the manufacturing process, lysozyme is added to the ferment filtrate to facilitate a controlled cell lysis. This steps helps ensure the release of the antimicrobial peptides for maximized activity.
The ability of Leucidal® Liquid SF MAX to inhibit the growth of a variety of bacteria and fungi was determined used the Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) test. The results indicated Leucidal® Liquid SF MAX has the ability to provide broad spectrum antimicrobial protection (please see the Technical Data Sheet for more information).
Leucidal Liquid SF MAX is Salicylate Free. It is also GMO Free and no ethoxylation, irradiation, sulphonation, hydrogenation, or ethylene oxide is used in processing. The solvent used for extraction is simply water. There are no additional preservatives or antioxidants. (Lotioncrafter)
Key Benefits
- Water soluble
- Naturally derived
- REACH Compliant
- Broad spectrum of antibacterial activity
- ECOcert approved ingredient in Certified Organic products
- On the Whole Foods Acceptable Premium Preservative List
Lipo-Keratin - "Lipo-Keratin is a high-purity, oil-soluble lipokeratin for skin, hair care and color cosmetics. This versatile, non-greasy, non-sticky keratin emollient can be used in all types of personal care products." (Lotioncrafter)
NatraColl (Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Rice Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, L-Proline) - A vegan (no animal product) collagen alternative made from sustainable plant sources. NatraColl™ is specifically designed to mimic the key animal-derived collagen amino acid composition, with the benefit of a sustainable, plant-derived, non-animal tested source. NatraColl™ fortifies the skin barrier, improves skin moisture, and smooths and rejuvenates for younger looking skin. NatraColl™ is also non-GMO, formaldehyde free, and paraben free. The key amino acids present are Glycine, Proline, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, and Lysine. (Lotioncrafter)
Benefits:
- Increases skin moisture
- Rejuvenates and smooths
- Fortifies the skin barrier for added protection
- Anti-aging
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - We use this in many formulations, in therapeutically effective quantities. It is extremely necessary for many skin and body functions. It can visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax or stretched out pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, brighten skin, and strengthen a weakened barrier, among other benefits. (Cleveland Clinic, Self)
Olive Oil -
Penstia Powder - a novel polymer that imparts a silky, creamy, cushiony feel to cosmetic formulations. Their porous spheres allow for high oil loading, which is useful for active entrapment, stabilization and sebum absorption. The particles 'roll' rather than 'drag', adding exceptional slip to any formulation. The chemical composition gives it dry binding properties and also allows it to be used in both water and oil phases, resulting in improved formula stability and reduced tackiness.
Penstia™ Powder polymer spheres can be used in the oil or water phase of a product to increase stability, reduce tackiness, and add slip with a silky, creamy skin feel. Penstia™ Powder has a synergistic effect with silicones and esters to increase thickening in products, and can be used to absorb sebum and deliver active ingredients. Penstia™ Powder can be used in mild cleansing products at up to 3% for gentle sebum absorption. It can be added to make-up products to increase slip and glide as well as sebum absorption. (Lotioncrafter)
Penstia™ powder makes our products feel more luxurious and higher end—it almost feels a bit like cheating! It adds a silky, creamy feel to emulsions and makeup. It is made up of porous spheres that roll across the skin on application, giving excellent slip. It also helps reduce sensations of tackiness and greasy/oiliness.
There’s nothing that’s quite like Penstia™ powder so it can be a bit tricky to substitute. If you’re looking to improve the slip of a recipe you could try including 1% dimethicone 350 to the oil phase. If you don’t have Penstia™ powder you can generally leave it out without drastically impacting the recipe. In a lotion you can substitute Penstia™ powder with more water. In a cosmetics you could replace it with more sericite mica. (Humblebee and Me)
Key benefits:
- Adds exceptional slip to emulsions
- Offers a silky, creamy skin feel
- Absorbs sebum in make-up or cleansing products
- Delivers active ingredients to skin
PlantaMulse Liquid -
PlantaMulse Liquid - Natural Plant Source, PEG-free, biodegradable emulsifier made from the esters of glycerin and fatty acids.
PlantaMulseLiquid performs beautifully at very low percentages to formulate cold process, sprayable formulations such as body mist or facial mist. PlantaMulseLiquid will emulsify essential oils, as well as light oils and emollients, in sprayable formulations and is recommended as a replacement for ethoxylated emulsifiers such as Polysorbate 20.
PlantaMulseLiquid can also be used as a complete self-emulsifier for elegant body milks and light, cold process lotions. PlantaMulseLiquid is easy to use and will leave skin feeling exceptionally soft, smooth and conditioned.
PlantaMulse Liquid has the ability to form lamellar liquid-crystalline structures in water which provides some emulsification and superb re-fatting properties and sensory characteristics. Sprayable emulsions made with PlantaMulse Liquid will separate upon standing and will need to be shaken before each use. (The Herbarie) (INCI: Sorbitan Laurate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (and) Dilauryl Citrate)
PlantaMulse Pastilles - Natural Plant Source, PEG-free, biodegradable emulsifier and emollient made from the esters of glycerin and fatty acids.- has the ability to form lamellar liquid-crystalline structures in water which provides exceptional stability and superb re-fatting properties and sensory characteristics.
- functions as an oil in water emulsifier and emollient for creams, lotions, serums, and other emulsions and will leave skin feeling exceptionally soft, smooth and conditioned.
- can be used as a complete self-emulsifier for elegant light lotions or serums. For creams and lotions where greater viscosity is desired, 1-2% fatty alcohol (ie. behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol) works beautifully.
It's also possible to use medium HLB co-emulsifier (PlantaEm), or low HLB co-emulsifier (ie. glyceryl stearate or sorbitan stearate or lecithin) to create thick emulsions. (The Herbarie) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methyglucose Distearate)
PlantaMulse Plus - Natural Plant Source, PEG-free, biodegradable, nonionic emulsifier completely based on renewable raw materials. PlantaMulsePlus is made from the esters of glycerin and fatty acids - stearic acid and behenic acid.PlantaMulsePlus performs beautifully at very low percentages to formulate stable, sprayable emulsions such as body mist or facial mist. PlantaMulsePlus will emulsify essential oils, as well as oils and emollients, in sprayable formulations and is recommended as a replacement for ethoxylated emulsifiers such as Polysorbate 20. PlantaMulsePlus offers superb moisturization properties and lovely sensory characteristics in stable, low viscosity formulas. PlantaMulsePlus is supplied in easy to use pastilles. Can also be used as a complete self-emulsifier for elegant body milks and light lotions. PlantaMulsePlus will leave skin feeling exceptionally soft, smooth and conditioned. (The Herbarie) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate)
Shea Butter - (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)Shea Butter WS - Water Soluble Shea Butter! Can emulsify, cleanse, and more.
SurfPro Helia - a modern hair conditioning agent that is better for your hair and the environment. It is a very mild, naturally-derived cationic surfactant ideally suited for hair conditioners and skin care products. It provides excellent wet and dry combability on hair in addition to excellent detangling and a soft, conditioned feel.
SurfPro Helia provides substantive conditioning without build-up. In skin care applications, it provides a unique, soft, conditioned skin feel and emulsification for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. (Lotioncrafter) (INCI: Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate)
Xanthan Gum -
HERBAL EXTRACTS INDEX
Acaí Berry - TL;DR - benefits for skin include the power of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and other nutrients, all of which work together to protect the skin from environmental pollutants and other harmful substances that create free radicals. Not only that, but all of the fatty acids are considered to be the building blocks for collagen, the skin’s connective tissue that makes us firm and tight, making acai benefits for skin quite powerful and enticing.
An aid in preventing early signs of aging. It helps with skin regeneration and, in a report from the National Institutes for Health (NIH), water extracts from the acai berry were evaluated in its positive effect on wound healing.
Available in many forms, including the above-mentioned extract, as well as a seed oil. In supplements, extracts are the one you want, because only the most important parts have been removed from the plant or fruit to be placed in the supplement.
What you do not want is a supplement that says something like “plant or fruit powder,” because it means the entire thing has been ground up and you can not be entirely sure of the benefits or potency.
Look for skin care products that include acai oil. It is a natural alternative to chemical-based products and you’ll be feeding your skin with nutrients galore. As we age, our skin moisture decreases and wrinkles can look deeper. Oil plumps the skin and passes through the lipid layer, improving the absorption of other ingredients.
Besides being so rich in antioxidants, acai oil contains fatty acids that help the skin look tight. In topical formulations, nutrients like fatty acids protect the skin from environmental aggressors and reduce the appearance of aging. This superfruit is also abundant in vitamins and minerals.
Oxidative stress is often referred to in the world of health, and it happens when we are stressed, either physically, mentally or from harsh environmental conditions. That creates free radicals and the skin is usually one of the first places to show it, with wrinkles, fine lines, sagginess, dark spots and discoloration. Many use acai berry to eliminate scars, stretch marks, crow’s feet and dry skin. Antioxidants help the body repair damaged skin cells faster. The result is a more youthful appearance.
One of the many great benefits of acai oil is that it has long-lasting effectiveness. Many other oils can lose potency over time because of exposure to light or oxygen, but the antioxidant properties of acai oil remain consistently high. When acai oil is processed and stored well (cool, dark place), even for a long time, effectiveness is not diminished.
Nutrient Composition:
It's often best to consume your nutrients AND use them topically in your creams and oils. Acai is a good source of:
- Anthocyanins and flavonoids: Both powerful antioxidants that neutralize free radicals and assist in in the body's cell protection system.
- Vitamin A: This vitamin is a wrinkle fighter. An antioxidant, this vitamin keeps your skin moist and clear. Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that promotes clear pores, increases collagen, and reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and skin discolorations.
- Vitamin C: A natural antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. It also protects against UV damage. As a precursor of collagen within the body, it keeps our skin firm, tight, and bright. Vitamin C has been cited in numerous studies for its role in anti-aging.
- B Vitamins: B vitamins help us digest our food, which is good for proper absorption. They transport nutrients to all the cells, including our skin, and fight free radicals. When it comes to free radicals, think: “human rust.” Free radicals make us look old and worn out. While all B vitamins do work together, acai is particularly rich in:
- B3, Niacin, which helps retain moisture so our skin is smooth and flake-free.
- B2, Riboflavin, an antioxidant that helps the body metabolize fats and protein.
- B1, Thiamine, which strengthens the immune system and helps the body withstand stress.
In addition, acai includes these minerals:
- Calcium: Regulating many skin functions, most calcium is found in the outermost layer of skin (the epidermis) where it plays an important role in lipid barrier function repair, skin renewal and antioxidant protection.
- Magnesium: When you are deficient in the mineral magnesium, you’ll experience a reduction in moistness and elasticity, the perfect storm for dryness and inflammation.
- Zinc: This mineral helps heal cuts and wounds. A dermatological study by Swedish doctors also found that the severity of acne lesions decreased from 100 percent to 15 percent in patients receiving 12 weeks of treatment with zinc sulfate (taken orally).
- Copper: Science shows benefits of copper include hydration, antioxidant protection and firmness.
Acmella Oleracea - Common Name Spilanthox Extract - Extremely potent anti-wrinkle herbal extract, which has been shown in clinical trials to noticeably reduce wrinkles in as little as two weeks, affectionately known as "Nature's Botox".
Offers several skin benefits based on its official function as a skin-protecting agent. Here, we will delve into the various benefits this extract can provide:
- Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles: Acmella Oleracea Extract is known for its ability to relax facial muscles and reduce muscle contractions, which in turn helps to smooth out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This natural extract offers a non-invasive alternative to more aggressive treatments, such as Botox, making it a popular choice for those seeking a gentler approach to anti-aging skincare.
- Boosts skin firmness and elasticity: The extract’s skin-relaxing properties can also contribute to improved skin firmness and elasticity. By reducing muscle tension, Acmella Oleracea Extract can promote a more youthful and toned appearance, helping to combat the sagging and loss of firmness that can occur with age.
- Antioxidant properties: Acmella Oleracea Extract is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals. These protective qualities can contribute to healthier, more resilient skin and may even help to prevent premature aging.
- Soothing effect: The extract has been reported to have a soothing effect on the skin, making it a potentially beneficial ingredient for those with sensitive or easily irritated skin. Its calming properties can help to reduce redness and inflammation, promoting a more even skin tone and a more comfortable feel.
It’s important to note that the beneficial effects of Acmella Oleracea Extract are not permanent, and usage must be sustained to maintain these results. Consistent application of products containing this ingredient is necessary to continue enjoying its skin-protecting and anti-aging benefits over time. (Glooshi)
(Cosmetics Design, First Base Skincare)Amla (a.k.a. Indian Gooseberry) - (INCI: Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract)
- Slows Down Aging. Loaded with antioxidants, it helps your skin revive its aging cells while giving it a better texture. It also helps in boosting collagen production [2] in your skin which keeps it soft, firm, and youthful. In a study conducted by the School of Cosmetic Science, amla is found to be a rich source of bioactive compounds which have potential anti-aging properties.
- Combats Acne. Helps in controlling pimples and scarring associated with acne. It acts as a natural blood purifier which in turn prevents the formation of acne besides fighting the acne-causing bacteria. The research conducted by the Prime College of Pharmacy, India concluded that a herbal cream formulation containing amla was effective in treating acne.
- Reduces Skin Pigmentation. Helps in fading your skin pigmentation marks by controlling the melanin production in your skin. It helps in lightening your complexion by removing tan. In a clinical evaluation of a formulation containing amla extract against hydroquinone 4% for skin lightening, it is found that amla-based formulation is an effective alternative to hydroquinone 4% to treat facial pigmentation.
- Clears Dead Skin Cells. Has ultra skin cleansing properties which help to unclog your skin pores from accumulated dead skin cells by exfoliating gently.
- Repairs Damaged Skin. The antioxidant content present helps in fighting the free radical damage in your skin. It has astringent properties too [3] which helps in tightening your skin pores and protects your skin barrier against UV damage, pollutants, and dirt. In a study conducted by Institute for Health Sciences, MIKI Corporation, Japan, it is found that amla extract is effective in controlling the photoaging activity caused by UVB radiation. (Vedix)
It can:
- Help relieve pain. One of the most popular ways to use arnica is to apply a topical arnica gel or balm on sore muscles and sprains. The plant's power to heal muscle aches comes from its strong anti-inflammatory benefits which, in turn, can reduce swelling and provide pain relief by improving blood circulation.
- Speed up wound healing. In addition to providing pain relief, arnica also has the potential to stimulate the flow of white blood cells and improve blood flow in the joints, muscles, and bruised tissue. For this reason, it's sometimes recommended that postoperative patients use it to heal faster after surgery. That being said, arnica should not ever be used on open wounds without direct instruction from your doctor.
- Soothe insect bites. Applying an arnica cream or arnica gel to a bite can help calm inflammation in the affected area and can help clear out the extra histamine by increased circulation, reducing the desire to scratch and therefore speeding up healing time overall.
- Help treat dandruff. In addition to being a natural anti-inflammatory, arnica also has antibacterial properties. These two benefits can team up to create a strong defense against scalp irritation and malassezia, a fungus that often triggers dandruff. To use it to promote scalp health, try adding a few drops of arnica oil to your shampoo or look for a shampoo that lists arnica as an active ingredient. You can also create a hair mask by combining arnica oil with a hydrating oil like coconut oil or jojoba oil.
- Depuff skin. In recent years, arnica's anti-inflammatory powers have been used for more cosmetic purposes like decreasing puffiness around the face. You'll often find it as an active ingredient in eye creams and in face masks like FIRST AID BEAUTY FAB Pharma Arnica Relief & Rescue Mask. (Ipsy)
Contains about 70% silica, making it the richest natural source of this mineral, besides pure, mined silica quartz. Compare this with Horsetail, the most commonly suggested natural silica supplement, which, at maximum, contains roughly 10% silica. Bamboo also contains many other beneficial compounds such as antioxidants, but the remarkably high silica content is our most compelling reason for use in many of our products. Potent anti-wrinkle component for all skin types and ages, most effectively on aging skin, also great for acne and other conditions. (Swiss Clinique, Beautiful With Brains)
Bearberry - (INCI: Uva Ursi Fruit Extract)
The health benefits of uva-ursi or the bearberry fruit are mainly due to its
unique chemical
makeup, which includes tannic, ursolic, and gallic acid, and various flavonoids. There are someessential oils
, resin, hydroquinones, tannins, and phenolic glycoside arbutin in it. These powerful organic compounds impact the body’s organs in several ways, making this a potentially valuable herbal remedy for many people. (Organic Facts
)Also called mountain cranberry or mountain grape, bearberry is actually the fruit of the uva ursi plant. A favorite food of bears, bearberry is a natural skin lightener with botanical active, arbutin, an impressive glycoside extracted from bearberry leaves. A distant cousin to hydroquinone, arbutin works by making the enzyme responsible for melanin production (tyrosinase) inactive. UV exposure, stress, and hormonal changes can contribute to uneven melanin production leaving skin patchy and uneven. Arbutin helps to correct the appearance of hyperpigmentation like age spots, freckles, melasma, and acne scars. The result is a more uniform, illuminated complexion. (Telluride Glow)
Boswellia Serrata - (a.k.a. Indian Frankincense)
Key Benefits: Include its ability to soothe symptoms of arthritis, lower inflammation, prevent autoimmune disease, speed wound healing, boost muscle strength, prevent headaches, and support skin health. (Organic Facts) Many claim it is helpful for reducing wrinkles, but we primarily use it for its proven ability to reduce unpleasant symptoms of osteoarthritis. This effect has been better proven through oral administration, but we use penetration enhancers to allow the boswellic acid to go where you need it most. Also, it smells wonderfully fragrant when extracted, unlike other comparable herbal remedies.
Butcher's Broom - (INCI: )
More ingredients coming soon!
Allantoin - regenerative and skin-soothing nutrient found naturally in the comfrey plant, among other places
Cetyl Alcohol - moisturizing fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, enhances texture, very unlike Isopropyl Alcohol
ECOmulse - emulsifier, naturally derived, raw non-gmo ingredients
Glucono Delta Lactone - (A.K.A. Gluconolactone, GDL) a miracle ingredient of beet, it is primarily derived through the fermentation of corn, or another glucose source; it moisturizes, smooths skin texture, and can reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it is used as a pH adjuster, preservative, chelator, and antioxidant.
Jeequat - quaternizing cationic naturally-derived emulsifier
Lauryl Laurate - derived from coconut and palm oil (but contains traces of neither), this is used to enhance the texture of products
NatraSil - moisturizing light alternative to silicones, naturally derived from olive oil, dry after feel
Phenyl Collosolve - (A.K.A. Phenoxyethanol) found naturally in green tea, this gentle preservative is necessary to keep our products from going bad within the first couple of weeks